6 Best Rock Climbing Spots Around Brisbane

Casual climber or hard core sender. If you find yourself in sunny Queensland and in Brisbane city, you may be surprised to find that Brisbane has a huge variety of rock types and some pretty unique crags! 

 

While you can climb in Brisbane year round, the ideal time is winter. With Queensland's humid heat in summer, you may find yourself slipping off holds more often, and maybe even get the occasional blister from the sun scorched rock. 

 

 

 

READ MORE:

 

How Much Does it Cost to Start Rock Climbing?

 

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So what is the best time to climb?

 

March through to October.

 

Try and climb in the shade either way, even in winter... Trust me on this.

 

So no matter if you are visiting or just looking for somewhere new, these are the 6 best rock climbing spots around Brisbane! 

 

 

SPORT CLIMBING

#1 Brooyar State Forest

Boasting some awesome car camping and numerous sandstone outcrops, it's well worth the 3 hour drive from Brisbane. OK, I know. Three hours drive! How is that even considered close to Brisbane?! In terms of time and distance in Australia, 3 hours drive is still close. Just make sure to stay for a few days or a whole weekend, it's definitely not a day trip destination.

 

The sandstone provides epic grip, and many of the crags there are also in some good shade, so it's a place you can still climb in summer.

 

Notable climbs to try: ‘Little Ray of Sunshine’ (17/5.9) & ‘Fatman Scoop’ 23/5.11c)

Best time of year: All year

Free online guide found at TheCrag.com

 

 

 

TRAD CLIMBING

#2 Frog Buttress

This is THE place to go if you are into trad climbing. Lots of cracks, offwidths, and everything in between, there's something for everyone.

 

Expect stiff grading, and whatever you do, don’t walk along the top to explore, it's a loose block jungle up there! The crowd is very friendly, so ask if you are wondering if you need that second .2 cam or not or if you have any other questions.

 

For an out of body experience, I just have to recommend you try Satan’s Smokestack (16/5.9) a four sided chimney that swallows you whole.

 

Notable climbs to try: ‘Electric lead’ (14/5.8) & ‘Infinity’ (19/5.10b)

Best time of year: Anytime but summer. Avoid at all costs in summer!

Free online guide found at TheCrag.com

 

 

 

 

MULTI PITCH CLIMBS

#3 Mt Tibrogargan

For a good day out doing some multi pitches, you have to go to Mt Tibrogargan! Passing it on the highway there, see if you can spot the resemblance of a gorilla hunched over.

 

The numerous caves provide plenty more fun if you have time to spare. Afternoon storms and showers occur in summer, so check the weather before you go. And always carry headtorches!

 

Notable climbs to try: Zeitgeist (17/5.8) & Aphelion (22/5.11a)

Best time of year: All year round. But no matter the season, climb the routes in the shade.

Free online guide found at TheCrag.com

 

 

 

ADVENTURE CLIMBS

#4 Mt Maroon

If you have solid trad skills and a head for exposure, you have to do Ruby of India, Queensland's classic ‘alpine’ route without ice or any resemblance to alpine-ness for that matter. There is plenty of adventurous exploring to be done there as well, and is a great one to do on a Saturday, then drive over to frog and camp for a Sunday session of crack climbing (if you have any energy left).

 

Notable climbs to try: Ruby of India (16/5.9)

Best time of year: All year round, in summer the climb is shady from midday onwards.

Free online guide found at TheCrag.com

 

 

 

AID CLIMBING

#5 Mt Beerwah

For those aid climbing affectionados, there is a place in Queensland you can climb aid, and that place is Mt Beerwah. The place is peppered with carrot bolts, and if you try the Beerwah bolt route, use a wire to climb the bolts, clipping your draws and rope into fixed hangers when available. Do not clip removable hangers on each carrot, as it'll take forever to clean. Watch the seconders swing if they are jugging as the route initially wanders a bit.

 

Notable climbs to try: Beerwah bolt route, original name- Stainless anti climb (A1)

Best time of year: Anytime but summer. Avoid it at all costs in summer!

Free online guide found at TheCrag.com

 

 

 

FOR CASUAL EVENINGS IN THE CITY

#6- Kangaroo Point Cliffs

There's not many places you can have a BBQ, and a few meters away have great climbs, and all in the middle of the city! Kangaroo Point is a superb urban city sport climbing crag. The rock is not perfect, but for the city views you will forget about that quickly.

 

With the entire cliff lit up with lights at night, relax and try the 300+ climbs there! 

 

Notable climbs to try: ‘Standing room only’ (16/5.9) & ‘Wages of Fear’ 24/5.12a)

Best time of year: All year round. In summer start early (6AM) or wait until after 5PM to catch the coolest periods.

Free online guide found at TheCrag.com

 

 


 

So there you have it! Some of the best climbing spots around Brisbane!

 

 

On your rest days, be sure to head to the beach at either south to the Gold coast or north to the Sunshine coast to unwind. And on rainy days (which are mostly rare), you can head to Urban climb at West End for some indoor gym  sessions.

 

If you need any gear, pop in to Pinnacle Sports, Brisbane’s favourite climbing supplies and advice shop. They will sort you out with whatever you need.

 

And for all the climb info including approaches and best time of day to climb, I recommend these two books:

 

South East Queensland Climbing’ & ‘Frog Buttress Climbing’. These can be found at most climbing shops or outdoor stores. 

 

All the info can also be found for free on thecrag.com

 

 

 

Happy climbing!

 

 

 

 

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